How to pick the right plant oil for your skin’s favorite fat

Key takeaways

• Linoleic acid, an omega-6 fat plentiful in sunflower and safflower oils, is built right into the fats that seal your skin’s outer layer⁴.
• In a 2013 study, adults who smoothed sunflower seed oil on one forearm twice a day for 4 weeks kept that outer layer intact and gained hydration³.
• Among 117 children with mild to moderate eczema, nearly half using virgin coconut oil had an excellent response at 8 weeks, versus about 1 in 5 using mineral oil¹⁰.
• Jojoba oil and shea butter are on the American Academy of Dermatology’s list of ingredients for dry skin¹¹.
• Choose cold-pressed oils, apply them to damp skin, store them somewhere cool and dark, and patch test anything new²¹¹.

Six drops. That was the amount in a 2013 study that put two kitchen oils side by side on human skin. Volunteers smoothed olive oil on one forearm and sunflower seed oil on the other, twice a day for 4 weeks. The sunflower side kept its outer layer intact and ended up better hydrated³.

That small experiment points to a big idea. Plant oils are not interchangeable. Each one carries its own mix of fatty acids. And your skin has a clear favorite: linoleic acid, an omega-6 fat it builds directly into its barrier⁴.

Researchers have now studied dozens of plant oils on skin. A 2017 review by scientists in Taiwan, California and Spain looked at 19 of them, from sunflower and coconut to rose hip and shea butter¹. The team focused on calming, antioxidant and barrier-supporting effects¹. Here is what that research shows, and how to use an oil’s fatty acid profile to choose one that suits your skin.

Linoleic acid is the fat your skin barrier is built around

Your skin’s outer layer (stratum corneum) works like a brick wall. Flattened, protein-rich cells are the bricks, and a mix of fats seals the gaps like mortar¹². Fats called ceramides make up 40 to 50 percent of the lipids in that layer⁴.

Linoleic acid is the most plentiful polyunsaturated fat in the outer skin⁴. Your body slots it into two special ceramides that help hold the seal together. The Linus Pauling Institute at Oregon State University notes that the linoleic acid in these ceramides tracks directly with barrier function⁴.

Your body cannot make linoleic acid on its own, so it has to come from food or from what you put on your skin. When people run short, skin turns scaly and loses more water to the air, a process called transepidermal water loss⁴.

Unlike most organs, skin can be nourished directly from the outside¹². Molecules that dissolve in fat can slip through the outer layer to the living skin beneath¹². The institute notes that applying oil may be an especially efficient route, because the liver burns a large share of the linoleic acid you eat⁴.

A classic study from 1975 showed how readily skin accepts this fat. People with essential fatty acid deficiency applied a quarter gram (250 mg) of sunflower seed oil to one forearm each day⁴⁵. After 2 weeks, their skin held more linoleic acid, its water loss was back to normal and it was less scaly⁴⁵. The oil on the forearm even brought the deficiency’s blood chemistry signs back in line⁴.

The balance of fats matters as well. A 2018 review in the American Journal of Clinical Dermatology looked at this closely². It concluded that oils with more linoleic acid relative to oleic acid have greater potential to support barrier repair². That simple ratio is the most useful thing to know as you compare bottles on a shelf.

Sunflower seed oil has the deepest research record

Sunflowers are native to the American Southwest and have long been used for food and medicine⁷. Their seed oil is rich in linoleic acid, and so is safflower oil⁴. Sunflower has been studied far more, in groups ranging from healthy adults to preterm babies.

The 2013 forearm study is a good place to start. It enrolled 19 adults, some with a history of eczema (atopic dermatitis) and some without³. Over 4 weeks, sunflower seed oil kept the outer layer intact, caused no redness and left skin better hydrated³.

Animal research points the same way. In a mouse study, sunflower seed oil helped the skin barrier recover faster, while olive, soybean and mustard seed oils slowed its recovery⁴⁶.

Families have seen encouraging results, too. In a study of 86 children with moderate eczema, some added a cream made with sunflower oil to their prescribed steroid cream⁷. Compared with children using the steroid cream alone, they had less thickened and scratched skin, used less steroid cream and reported better quality of life⁷. That study is a good model for how natural care fits in: alongside the plan your clinician prescribes.

Some of the most striking sunflower research comes from newborn care in Bangladesh. In a randomized trial, 497 preterm babies at high risk of serious infection received one of three routines⁷. Their skin was massaged with sunflower seed oil three times a day, covered with a petroleum-based moisturizer, or given standard care alone⁷. The sunflower group had 41 percent fewer bloodstream infections (sepsis) and 26 percent fewer deaths than babies who got standard care⁷. Those results were similar to the moisturizer’s, at a fraction of the cost, and no adverse events were reported⁷.

Specialists have weighed in. Yasmine Kirkorian, MD, has noted data supporting sunflower seed oil or safflower oil as a moisturizer for newborns⁸. Healthy, full-term babies are a different situation. In a pilot trial of 115 newborns at the University of Manchester, babies who got no oil at all showed the steadiest barrier development⁸. The comparison groups received olive or sunflower oil twice a day for their first 4 weeks⁸. Results vary from study to study, and researchers are still working out the best routines for newborns. Plan baby skin care with your pediatrician.

For adults, dermatologist Peter Lio, MD, sums up sunflower seed oil as safe, inexpensive and widely available⁷. He calls it a reasonable choice for people whose skin barrier needs support, as long as they have no known sunflower seed allergy⁷.

Oleic-rich olive oil shines in the kitchen

Olive oil is a cornerstone of Mediterranean eating. Its main fat is oleic acid, an omega-9 fat². That profile serves you beautifully at the table. On skin, oils with more linoleic acid tend to be the better match for the barrier².

The 2013 forearm study shows the difference. After 4 weeks, olive oil left the outer layer less tightly knit and caused mild redness³. That happened in volunteers with and without a history of eczema³. In the mouse research, olive oil also slowed barrier recovery⁴⁶.

Lio suggests choosing sunflower seed oil over olive oil for skin care⁷. The practical takeaway is easy to remember. Keep olive oil in the kitchen for salads, roasted vegetables and good bread, and reach for a linoleic-rich oil when your skin feels dry.

Virgin coconut oil has clinical trials of its own

Coconut oil follows different rules. It is made mostly of saturated fats, with almost no omega-6⁴, so its value for skin comes from other qualities. Like mineral oil, it forms a film that holds water in (an occlusive) and softens the skin (an emollient)¹⁰. Researchers also believe it has calming and antibacterial properties¹⁰.

The best-known trial came from a medical center in Manila, in the Philippines. In a randomized, double-blind study, 117 children with mild to moderate eczema applied virgin coconut oil or mineral oil twice a day for 8 weeks⁹¹⁰. In the coconut group, 93 percent improved on a standard eczema score called SCORAD, compared with 53 percent of the mineral oil group¹⁰.

The gap was wider at the top. Nearly half of the coconut group had an excellent response, versus about 1 in 5 children using mineral oil¹⁰. Coconut oil also scored better on water loss and skin hydration readings, and both oils were well tolerated⁹¹⁰. Mineral oil was a fair yardstick, since dermatologists list it among the ingredients to look for in dry-skin products¹¹.

Older adults have been studied, too. At the same 2013 dermatology meeting, a second Philippine team presented a study of 148 older adults with dry skin on their legs. After 2 weeks of twice-daily use, about 1 in 3 people using virgin coconut oil met the study’s mark for a good response¹⁰. In the mineral oil group, fewer than 1 in 10 did¹⁰.

Dermatologists have taken note. Elaine Siegfried, MD, has recommended coconut oil, pointing to data on its safety and benefits in eczema and in newborns⁸. If you choose coconut oil, look for virgin (unrefined) oil, the type used in these trials⁹¹⁰.

Jojoba, shea, argan and oat bring their own strengths

Jojoba stands apart chemically. It is a liquid wax rather than a true oil, and researchers describe it as stable on the shelf². Your skin’s own oil (sebum) is a waxy substance as well¹². Jojoba oil appears on the American Academy of Dermatology’s list of ingredients to look for in products for dry skin¹¹.

Shea butter is on that same list¹¹. As a plant butter, it is thicker than liquid oils, which makes it a comfortable choice for rough elbows, heels and hands. The 2017 review included shea butter among its 19 plant oils¹.

Argan oil comes from the argan tree of Morocco, and it is one of six oils featured in the 2018 dermatology review². A 2015 study in postmenopausal women tested argan oil eaten, applied to the skin, or both, with skin elasticity as the main measure². It is a good example of how researchers are looking at plant oils from the inside and the outside at once.

Oat oil rounds out that review². Oats carry plant compounds called avenanthramides, which researchers have studied in the lab for calming and anti-itch activity². Rose hip, pomegranate seed, borage, almond and avocado oils were also part of the 2017 review, each with its own mix of fats and plant compounds¹.

Antioxidants are part of the picture. Vitamin E is the most abundant fat-soluble antioxidant in human skin, and your sebum carries it up to the surface¹³. Vitamin E applied to the skin soaks into both the outer and deeper layers¹³. Sunlight and ozone use up vitamin E in the outer layer, though¹³. That makes daily sun protection a smart partner for any skin oil routine, a topic the library covers in its sunscreen guide.

Seed oils taken by mouth are being studied for skin, too

The plant oils in your diet reach your skin as well. Researchers combined a large U.S. government nutrition survey (NHANES I) with skin exams by dermatologists⁴¹⁶. Women aged 40 to 74 who ate more linoleic acid were less likely to have dry or thinning skin⁴¹⁶.

Small clinical trials have tested seed oil capsules directly. In a placebo-controlled study of 40 healthy adults aged 32 to 56, people took 1.5 grams of evening primrose oil a day for 12 weeks⁴¹⁴. They scored better than the placebo group on skin moisture, water loss, elasticity, firmness and roughness⁴¹⁴. Evening primrose oil is rich in gamma-linolenic acid (GLA), another omega-6 fat⁴.

A second study enrolled 45 women aged 18 to 65 with dry, sensitive skin⁴¹⁵. They took flaxseed oil, borage oil or a placebo, 2.2 grams a day, for 12 weeks⁴¹⁵. Both oil groups had less water loss, less roughness and scaling, and a calmer reaction to a skin irritant than the placebo group⁴¹⁵. Borage oil is rich in GLA, while flaxseed oil is rich in alpha-linolenic acid (ALA), an omega-3 fat⁴.

Smart use for seed oil capsules

Thinking about a seed oil capsule? The studies give a helpful starting point. They used 1.5 grams of evening primrose oil a day, or 2.2 grams of flaxseed or borage oil¹⁴¹⁵. Look for a third-party quality seal such as USP Verified, NSF Certified for Sport or ConsumerLab approved. These seals show that an independent lab checked the product.

Give it the full 12 weeks the studies used before you judge the results¹⁴¹⁵. Share your complete supplement list with your healthcare team, too, so everything works together with the rest of your care.

How to choose and use a plant oil

Start with the fatty acid profile, then think about texture and what your skin needs. Linoleic-rich oils suit a barrier that feels tight or dry². The table below sums up the oils with the strongest research.

Oil	Main fats	Skin it may suit	What research found
Sunflower seed	Linoleic acid (omega-6)	Dry or stressed skin	Adults kept the outer layer intact and gained hydration in 4 weeks3
Safflower	Linoleic acid (omega-6)	Dry skin	Delivered linoleic acid through the skin in animal research4
Virgin coconut	Mostly saturated fats	Dry, rough skin	Nearly half of 117 children with eczema had an excellent response at 8 weeks10
Jojoba	Liquid wax	Dry skin	On the dermatology academy’s list of dry-skin ingredients11
Olive	Oleic acid (omega-9)	Best enjoyed in food	Sunflower suited the forearm barrier better in a 4-week study3
Evening primrose, borage (capsules)	GLA (omega-6)	Dry, sensitive skin	Better moisture and smoothness in 12-week trials1415

Sources:^23410111415

Texture helps you fine-tune the choice. If your skin runs oily, two or three drops of a light oil may be plenty. For very dry, rough patches, a richer choice such as shea butter or virgin coconut oil can feel more comforting. With sensitive skin, add one new product at a time so you can tell what agrees with you.

A few simple habits help any oil do its best work:

• Look for “cold-pressed” or “unrefined” on the label. Cold pressing uses no heat or chemicals, which keeps beneficial fats intact and limits irritating byproducts².

• Pick a single-ingredient, fragrance-free oil. Dermatologists advise skipping fragrance when skin is dry¹¹.

• Read the ingredient list. Labels often use Latin plant names, so sunflower seed oil may appear as Helianthus annuus⁷.

• Apply it to damp skin right after a bath or shower, the moment dermatologists recommend for moisturizing¹¹.

• Start small. The forearm study used six drops on each arm³.

• Store the bottle in a cool, dark cupboard with the cap on tight, and replace it if it starts to smell sharp or stale.

• Patch test any new oil on a small area for a few days before using it widely. The library’s patch testing guide walks you through it.

• Skip oils pressed from seeds or nuts you are allergic to⁷.

• Plan any oil routine for a newborn with your pediatrician⁸.

Plant oils work best as part of a full skin care plan that includes your medical care. If dryness lingers, the American Academy of Dermatology suggests seeing a board-certified dermatologist¹¹. Dry skin can be linked to conditions such as eczema or psoriasis¹¹. Keep using anything your clinician has prescribed, and bring your favorite oil to the visit so it can fit into your plan.

The bottom line

Let fatty acids be your guide. Linoleic-rich sunflower and safflower oils tend to suit the skin barrier best. Virgin coconut oil has its own clinical trials in dry skin. Jojoba and shea earn a spot on the dermatologists’ dry-skin list, while olive oil does its finest work in the kitchen.

Good habits make every bottle go further. Choose cold-pressed oil, smooth a few drops onto damp skin, keep it cool and dark, and patch test before you commit. If you add seed oil capsules, pick a product with a quality seal and give it 12 weeks.

The research keeps growing, from newborn care in Bangladesh to dermatology clinics in Manila. With a little label reading, the right plant oil can become one of the simplest, most satisfying parts of your daily routine.

Sources

1. Lin TK, Zhong L, Santiago JL. Anti-Inflammatory and Skin Barrier Repair Effects of Topical Application of Some Plant Oils. International Journal of Molecular Sciences. 2017. ncbi.nlm.nih.gov

2. Vaughn AR, Clark AK, Sivamani RK, Shi VY. Natural Oils for Skin-Barrier Repair: Ancient Compounds Now Backed by Modern Science. American Journal of Clinical Dermatology. 2018. doi.org

3. Danby SG, Alenezi T, Sultan A, Lavender T, Chittock J, Brown K, Cork MJ. Effect of Olive and Sunflower Seed Oil on the Adult Skin Barrier: Implications for Neonatal Skin Care. Pediatric Dermatology. 2013. research.lstmed.ac.uk

4. Angelo G; Linus Pauling Institute, Oregon State University. Essential Fatty Acids and Skin Health. Micronutrient Information Center. 2026. lpi.oregonstate.edu

5. Prottey C, Hartop PJ, Press M. Correction of the Cutaneous Manifestations of Essential Fatty Acid Deficiency in Man by Application of Sunflower-Seed Oil to the Skin. Journal of Investigative Dermatology. 1975. pubmed.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov

6. Darmstadt GL, Mao-Qiang M, Chi E, et al. Impact of Topical Oils on the Skin Barrier: Possible Implications for Neonatal Health in Developing Countries. Acta Paediatrica. 2002. pubmed.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov

7. Lio P. Skin Barrier Benefits of Sunflower Seed Oil. Dermatology Times. 2015. dermatologytimes.com

8. Dermatology Times. What We Know Today About Applying Oils to Newborn Skin. Dermatology Times. 2016. dermatologytimes.com

9. Evangelista MT, Abad-Casintahan F, Lopez-Villafuerte L. The Effect of Topical Virgin Coconut Oil on SCORAD Index, Transepidermal Water Loss, and Skin Capacitance in Mild to Moderate Pediatric Atopic Dermatitis: A Randomized, Double-Blind, Clinical Trial. International Journal of Dermatology. 2014. pubmed.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov

10. Worcester S. Virgin Coconut Oil Bests Mineral Oil for Dermatitis, Xerosis. Family Practice News (MDedge). 2013. mdedge.com

11. American Academy of Dermatology. Dermatologists’ Top Tips for Relieving Dry Skin. AAD.org. 2026. aad.org

12. Linus Pauling Institute, Oregon State University. Skin Health. Micronutrient Information Center. 2026. lpi.oregonstate.edu

13. Linus Pauling Institute, Oregon State University. Vitamin E and Skin Health. Micronutrient Information Center. 2026. lpi.oregonstate.edu

14. Muggli R. Systemic Evening Primrose Oil Improves the Biophysical Skin Parameters of Healthy Adults. International Journal of Cosmetic Science. 2005. pubmed.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov

15. De Spirt S, Stahl W, Tronnier H, et al. Intervention With Flaxseed and Borage Oil Supplements Modulates Skin Condition in Women. British Journal of Nutrition. 2009. pubmed.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov

16. Cosgrove MC, Franco OH, Granger SP, Murray PG, Mayes AE. Dietary Nutrient Intakes and Skin-Aging Appearance Among Middle-Aged American Women. American Journal of Clinical Nutrition. 2007. pubmed.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov

This article is for general education and is not medical advice. Talk with your healthcare professional about your own health, especially before starting a new supplement if you are pregnant, nursing, taking medicine, or managing a health condition. Statements about dietary supplements have not been evaluated by the Food and Drug Administration. These products are not intended to diagnose, treat, cure, or prevent any disease. Reviewed October 2026.